Car Craft Turbo

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c4morgan
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Car Craft Turbo

Post by c4morgan »

I have a 5 seater buggy with a 2332 dual carb motor. It has built heads and race internal parts. I am looking to upgrade to a Car Craft turbo. What does it do to reliability?

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Post by porboy »

If built right it will be just as reliable as your carbed motor.

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Post by jce12ga »

I know Car Craft has been doing turbo's for years so I would think their systems are pretty reliable. I have talked with them about jetting for my current set-up and they were a great help.

Some considerations for any motor combination/application are:
Bottom end: You need a good strong bottom end. A forged crank and a good set of rods. Cranks can be a good VW welded stroker from VW forging or later forgings that are available. Rods can be some of the newer chromoly I beam stock appearing rod or H beam type.

Oil Pump: High volume oil pump, something larger than stock pump. Average rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1000 rpm engine will run. Most builders install larger pumps when building the larger motors. Too much pressure and you're just wasting horsepower turning the pump and oveheating the oil.

Pistons: Forged pistons with preferably gapless rings on at least 2nd groove, (Total Seal, etc.). Most of your aftermarket sets in 90.5, 92 & 94 mm are forged pistons. Excessive blow-by on a turbo motor can make a big mess real fast and cause serious problems.

Compression ratio: This is dependent on boost you plan on running. More boost the lower cr you need to start with.

Carburation: Get the jetting right !! Too rich you may lose a little power but too lean and motor will "ping" or "rattle". This is detonation and can spell a quick death for a turbo'd engine. Most setups should come jetted correctly for a given application.

Fuel: You may need to run some race gas mixed with your current fuel. This will depend on your CR and boost level.

My current setup: 1835 running 7 psi boost, sidedraft Weber DCOE. The compression ratio is @ 10:1, camshaft is equivalent to Engle 110. Crank is forged VW counterweighted crank stock stroke. Pistons are 92mm forged with wrist pin buttons. Heads are Pauter "A" type. Rods are prepped stock type rods, (may be upgrading rods though). I run a 50/50 mix of pump gas premium and F&L 111 octane.

The boost I am running is low compared to many but this engine combination has been dynoed on a chassis dyno at 114 hp & 125lbs/ft. of torque. Engine was dynoed with a Zenith 32NDIX at the time,( first carburetor I had available for conversion, Weber is more responsive and has a higher CFM rating).

I have been running this engine for about five seasons. I don't baby the car but I don't trash it when I go out either. I can easily pull Olds in 3rd gear, any path. My car weighs @ 1100 lbs wet, give or take a couple of emptys in cooler.
Been to El Yeti lately?

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Engine Details

Post by c4morgan »

I have a APRM aftermarket case with Scat Forged crank, Scat H Beam rods, K8 cam with 1.4 ratio rockers. The heads have 10mm bolts with work by Performance Workshop (42x37.5 values)

Does this work for a turbo?

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Re: Engine Details

Post by OBSESSED »

c4morgan wrote:I have a APRM aftermarket case with Scat Forged crank, Scat H Beam rods, K8 cam with 1.4 ratio rockers. The heads have 10mm bolts with work by Performance Workshop (42x37.5 values)

Does this work for a turbo?
Has the heads been 'CUT' for compression?

You'd be supprised what will work in a turbo'ed engine, yes there are better set ups than others, but read below:

I saw Ed [owner of CC] dune a 1600 cc [stock] engine with one of his Kits
and keep up just fine. He had good springs in the valves, but stock everything else. This a few years ago when he was testing. He turned the boost all the way up to 25 lbs. Didn't blo it up. This $400 engine [bottom end/top end complete] with one of Ed's standard kits put out over 200 hp [not dyno'ed but if you rode in it you'd know].

Has anyone ever built a long block for $400 that put out 200HP?
I doubt it.
Throw in the cost for turbo/header/induction etc and you have a very sweet package for under $2,600 or so. That PUT OUT OVER 200 HP!

Build the bottom end correct.
Use good rods/rings/pistons/
Keep the compression low [the lower the compression, the more boost FUN you can add]

Once you turbo....

You'll never go back.

There are many ways to add a turbo, many good kits available.

I like the CC kit because of it's simple straight forward useable-ness.

If my wife's rail had Dual Webers on it, the engine would put out maybe 110HP to the ground. Hers puts out about 100 more to the ground.
So for about the same cost as a good set of Carbs, add 100 HP with the CC kit.

No computer to go haywire, unless you really want a computer, and fuel injection with a 'blow thru' system; then Ed's 'draw thru' simple system works great.

If you have a good low compression [built with less than 9-1////8.25-1 is better 9-1] engine, a turbo will blow your socks off :!:

I mean, you remember "FIRSTS" in your life. I still remember the first time my rails boost came on.... WOW Baby!

Steve

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Post by NOSJunkie »

I just got a 4-71 BDS Blower for my V6. I cant wait to tear the motor down and change comp. ratio and cam AND FEEL THE BOOST
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Post by riffraff »

That kit is a great choice. Have the same CC's as you love the CarCraft kit. I've ran mine 6 trips now, no problems, and what a difference. Have checked the valves a few times and haven't had to adjust them at all. The main thing with maintaining engine life is keeping the boost low and CC stresses this as well. I run about 12 lbs and see no reason to run more. I can start at the bottom of China Wall in 3rd gear and pull it all the way up screamin (1000 lb car). With dual 48's, forget it. 3rd would fall on it's face and I had to stay in 2nd.

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C.C. Turbo

Post by Buggy Whipped »

Went with a CC Turbo set-up after much deliberation and could not be happier. Sean at CC built it and I have had a smile on my face since I first fired it up. I pulls hard with no stumbles bottom to top, with tons of torque. My car is a 1400 lb. 5 seater and it has no trouble anywhere and can dune with anything out there. Give them a call, you will not be disappointed.

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Turbo

Post by c4morgan »

Thanks for the information. Have a Turbo on order from CarCraft. Can't wait to see the hp difference. Also plan to have compression lowered and new Cam installed per CC's recommendation.

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Post by railcrzy »

Yeah Steve Ive seen one of the 1600 turbos keep up with the big motors, but the turbo kits alone start at $2700
Go Hard or Go Home!

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Post by Rubths »

I had the CC turbo on my 2332 and loved the performance but hated the header. If you have a mid to long travel you will crack your header very quickly. In two years I went through 3 headers because the weight of the turbo hanging off the header combined with whoops and jumps will not support the weight and will crack and break.

I am in no way bashing CC! I have done business with Ed for 4 years now and would always give his business a thumbs up I am just not a fan of the header.

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Post by jm102397 »

And we bought Rubs' car and have gone through 2 more in the year since... :(
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Post by railcrzy »

Well I have a cc turbo on order, and im going to talk to Ed about the header cracking issue.

If there is any way of reinforceing it, i want it done before i go out,because i WILL put it through the test. :lol:
Go Hard or Go Home!

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Issues

Post by c4morgan »

I just that CC build the turbo on my 2332 motor. First time out I had issues when I was on the gas hard for ~10 sec in 3th gear. The carb was running the bowl out. Took it back to Shaun at CC. He changed the filter pressure to 2 3/4, New fuel filter and adjusted the float level.

Has anyone else had this type of issue?

ALso regrding the header breakage. My turbo is mounted via a long eye bolt to the block. Is this the same configuration that has header breakage?

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Re: Issues

Post by Rubths »

ALso regrding the header breakage. My turbo is mounted via a long eye bolt to the block. Is this the same configuration that has header breakage?[/quote]

Yes I had the so called support they put on my motor and still broke the header. Jamie who purchased my car is still using the CC support and like he said has gone through two headers in the year they have owned the car.

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Post by porboy »

I had the same issue. You need to add a brace for the carb. As Rubths said that is alot of weight hanging off there.

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Post by rbjcampi »

I don't know how new of an addition it is but the headers I just bought now come with a mount on the header for an additional brace for the carb. It is a tab welded to the #3 cylinder (See Pics, keep in mind I have not gotten the headers coated yet, long story) Unfortunely, I have a T4 turbo and can't put the "normal" CC brace. I used the new bracket for my brace so we'll see what happens

Definetly feels more solid than the headers that were "custom built" for me (they lasted 1/2 a day)

On another note, anyone use the Comp-u-fire DIS-1X system? I just installed it but haven't had a chance to use it yet. Anything I need to know? (Unless it's really really bad news)

Image

Image

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Post by porboy »

Yep, thats new.

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header

Post by c4morgan »

How does it mount to the carb?

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Post by rbjcampi »

I'll get some pics up when I get a chance but basically I took the arm for the regular turbo mount and put a long bolt in the other end (the end that's not in the pic) then put a bracket on my carb with a hole through it for the screw.

It will probably make sense when I get the pic up but I put a very crude drawing to help

Image

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Post by Rubths »

I hope that brace helps out because it looks like ****.

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Post by rbjcampi »

I hope that brace helps out because it looks like ****.

If your talking about my engineering skills, sorry you don't like it

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Post by c4morgan »

Did you mount the bracket to the base of the carb with longer bolts? Or how is the bracket mounted to the carb? Welded, Base of Carb at manafold, Top of air cleaner, etc..

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Post by rbjcampi »

My carb came with this bracket when I got the engine but it doesn't look like it would be hard to make. It is mounted on the bottom of the carb and goes through 2 of the bolts. The only thing you can't see is the nut underneath the bracket so the carb can't move down. I still need to trim it down and paint it but here's how it looks for now

Image


Here is the whole thing

Image

It would be nice if the center of the bracket was longer to cover up more of the threads but this works for now. You can't tell but the to ends are pretty close to touching each other inside the CC tube

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