Wiring a buggy

[railcrzy]

Does anyone have any good basic diagrams to help me wire my buggy?

I just finished my new buggy and now i need to wire it.

Im running oil temp, oil pressure,and boost guages.

Im going to switch my cooler fan and whip and tailight and interior light.

I have the fus bus and fusses and wires ,switches, and stuff,just putting it toghether is my weekness.

Tail and head light (low) (high) 2 sets with 3 toggle switch.

Any general drawings or whatever to help would be appreciated.

[Glamisman]

One thing I would highly recommend is a master battery cut off switch between the + side of the battery and everything else. If you use one make sure that it can handle enough amps for those stubborn times when the motor just wont fire up right away.

I like to use the marine style rotay switch ... off BAT 1 BAT 2 BOTH. They are kind of large and ugly but so is an electrical fire in the dunes.

If you are going to do the wiring yourself make a diagram as you go and use some sort of a logical color coordination. I like to use red wire for all constant hot wires. Black for all grounds, green for oil pressure signal from pressure switch, blue for switched power. So for your lights the relay is either a 4 or 5 prong relay with the numbers 30, 85, 86, 87 and maybe and 87a prong. From the switched side of the master battery cut off I run a #10 or #12 red wire to the #30 prong and a blue #12 or #10 from the #87 prong to the light(s). You have to use the #30 and #87 prongs on the relays for the heavy current usage because the contacts are designed for it, the #85 and #86 are not.

These #'s are standardized wiring in all german vehicles pre WWII so a #15 (switched from the ignition switch) on a diagram for a 1962 Type 1 is the same as a 2005 BMW 7 series.

I have seen some buggys wired with all the same color wire, what a friggin nightmare to try to figure out why the cooling fans dont come on and ALL the wires in the loom are the same diameter and color.

Buy a good set of crimpers, you are going to have to go to a real electronics store to get them $50 at least. You want the kind that roll the crimp back into the wire, not the ones that just crush the crimp on the wire. I like to solder every connection and use heat shrink tubeing. It takes time but you are not going to have intermitant problems due to connections failing.

As far as diagrams go, the only real problem that I can foresee is the wiring of the ignition system... is it VW powered, and is the coil ballasted
internally or externally.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[OBSESSED]

Rail Wiring Simplified

Wire is sized in gague=awg. #6 means 6 awg. Wire. The smaller the number the bigger the wire. Steps:
VW Wiring of a non-computer controlled rail
Steps
1 Run #6 or #8 from Alternator (screw terminal) to your battery plus +.
2 Ground your battery with bigger than #6 as close to your battery as possible.
3 Run #6 or bigger to starter (+terminal post) from + on battery.
4 Now run #8 to 30 amp circuit breakers close to your battery.
5 Run other end to dash/switches/console location.
6 Do this TWICE (steps #4 & 5)
Note: If you run separate runs for lights and “other” power, you’ll be able to ‘Get Back’ if you fry one circuit breaker
7 At Dash one #8 will tie to your ign key switch.
8 Ign key on splice on to #12 + to Fuel pump
#12 + to all gauges
If you have electronic Ign. Run separate + from key “on”
Run Hot +(#14) from Ign key on to coil. All sending units use #16 or #18 unless gauge says something else. Run power+ from key on position to all gauges. Ground (-) at switches, separately (run ground to frame).
9 +(#18 wire to idiot light run other side of idiot light (#18 to push on terminal on alternator. You must have idiot light for your Alt. to charge.
10 Momentary on “ON” starter switch to starter run #16 or #14
11 At dash other #8 will tie to all your light switches
12 Run 20 amp fuse holder on “ON” side of light switches
Note: I run separate fuse to each light, but that is overkill, (100 watt light uses 8.33 amps)
13 Two light switches for 4 headlights. Run #14 to headlights.
14 Separate switch for antenna and taillights or combine them (use LED tail and antenna lights for better battery amp hour usage) Hook your dash/gauges to tail lights. Run #18 (up to #14) to taillights and antenna.



Use this simple wire chart for your simple wiring needs.
Have fun & take your time…Keep it simple, Run a 2 spares (from battery area to dash) if you are getting fancy and “looming” your wires for future Gauges or other stuff. Run your wires along your frame rails and turn them at 90-degree angles for looks…

Steve

PS I welded a 3/8's bolt directly to frame near battery. When you power coat frame just triple nut it to keep it clean. This bolt will serve as your battery ground. Make it near as possible to your minus- on batt. But make it easily reachable so it is easy to disconnect after a weekend, and to work on your rail.
Like it says above, put in a disconnect to battery is a good idea.

[railcrzy]

Hey Steve, thats sounds pretty darn good.

I should of just thought about calling you, i forgot that was your specialty.

Ill work on it this weekend,and maybe give u a call if needed. If u dont mind that is.

Thanks for the advice and sooner or later it will come toghether.

[OBSESSED]

specialty.
...
sooner or later it will come toghether.

Well, just because you have wired rails in your past doesn't mean you are special...

I had so many people asking about wiring rails, I typed it up and saved it, [I don't know what was in those Kewl guy faces, I'll go look.]

Good luck Larry,

Call anytime,

Steve

[OBSESSED]

Maybe this one will be easier to read:

SandRail Wiring

Here is a simple wire size chart for you to use as a guide line.
ALL WIRE STRANDED AUTO RATED USE SIZE LISTED OR NEXT BIGGER
(#12 IS BIGGER THAN #14- #14 IS BIGGER THAN #16 ETC)
FROM TO SIZE OF WIRE /FUSE SIZE
BATTERY -GROUND #8 OR LARGER
BATTERY +STARTER #8 OR LARGER
BATT+ ALTERNATOR #8 PREFERED OR #10
+ BATT. RE-SETABLE CIRCUIT BREAKER (30 AMP) #10 (40 AMP #8
C-BREAKER SWITCH BOX OR CONSOL/MAIN KEY 'ON' #8 OR #10
SEPARATE C-BREAKER FOR LIGHTS #8

KEY ON WILL TURN ON:
1)FUEL PUMP #14 /20AMP
2)IGN OR IGN BOX/OR +ON COIL #16 /
3)+ WIRE TO IDIOT LIGHT OTHER SIDE OF IDIOT LIGHT RUNS TO ALTERNATOR (USE #18
4)+ WIRE TO GAUGES #14 SPLICE TO ALL + ON GAUGES FUSE (15 AMP) AT OUTPUT OF KEY
SENDING UNITS TO GAUGES CAN BE RUN WITH #18 AWG.

RELAY FOR OIL COOLER FAN-RUN FUSED #12 AWG OFF + OF BATTERY TO RELAY
5)SWITCH RELAY ON WITH SEPERATE SWITCH OR IGN ON SWITCH

BATTERY+ TO LIGHTS CONTROL -RUN SEPRATE #8 OR #10 TO LIGHT SWITCHES

NOTE: 1-12 VDC LIGHT @ 100 WATTS = 8.33 AMPS OF BATTERY/ALTERNATOR DRAW

2 LIGHT SWITCHES FOR 4 LIGHTS USE #16 FOR A WIRE TO EACH LIGHT (10 AMP FUSE)
IF YOU RUN 2 LIGHTS ON SAME WIRE USE #12 AND 20 AMP FUSE

HID's USE LESS POWER SO LESS WIRE SIZE CAN BE USED TYPICAL HID IS 35 WATTS
(35 DIVIDED BY 12 = 3 AMPS OF DRAW AND #18 AWG. SIZE WIRE)

I RUN A FUSE FROM SWITCH TO EACH LIGHT-THAT WAY IF ONE LIGHT SHORTS OUT, YOU ONLY LOOSE ONE LIGHT

ANTENNA LIGHT 25 WATT USE #18 AWG.

TAIL LIGHTS TYPICAL 25 WATT USE #18 FOR EACH, OR RUN ALL TOGETHER ON SEPRATE SWITCH AND USE #14 AND A 10 AMP FUSE

LED TAIL LIGHTS USE WAY LESS WATTAGE

ADD UP ALL YOUR LOADS
LIGHTS ARE YOUR MAIN POWER DRAW.
EXAMPLE-4-100 WATT HEAD LIGHTS (8.33 X 4)= 34 AMPS
2 25 WATT TAIL LIGHTS AND ONE 25 WATT ANTENNA LIGHT= 6.25 AMPS
LIGHT LOAD = 41+ AMPS HOW BIG IS YOUR ALTERNATOR?
Consider HID'S AND LED TAIL LIGHTS AND ANTENNA LIGHT

HAVE FUN CALL ME WITH QUESTIONS

Steve

[railcrzy]

Very well done Steve.


That will help alot. I know that took you some time to type up so, thanks again.

Have u heard?

Ron at cc liked car so much he's now a chenowth dealer.

He's building the same car but A-arm.

ttyl Larry

[OBSESSED]

Very well done Steve.

That will help alot. I know that took you some time to type up so, thanks again.
Have u heard?
Ron at cc liked car so much he's now a chenowth dealer.
He's building the same car but A-arm.
ttyl Larry

Actually I had it saved in a file...

That Chen rail is pretty kewl for the $$$

I love building [assembling] rails, for fun, if it was a job, then that would be different??
I don't know.



If takes some time to do it right...

Don't CUT a WIRE until you are sure it is long enough! Waste some wire, do not be afraid

My rail had no splices, until I added a gauge.

Good luck,

S

[Sloppyduner]

I was about to post a similiar thread. My only question though being that I'm pretty happy with the wirering job on this old rail I bought was the p.o. ran the light wires along the rails. I'd like to run just a 16 AWG (16?) through the rails to hide them. Is there an easy trick to doing this? Or is there a reason NOT to do it at all?

Thanks in advance for ANY advice.

TRYING to get the rail ready by Aug. That means I'll have it done by Oct

[OBSESSED]

I'd like to run just a 16 AWG (16?) through the rails to hide them. Is there an easy trick to doing this?

Or is there a reason NOT to do it at all?

Use some kite string as a pull wire

Drill a 1/4 " hole near where you want it to run at each end

Use compressor to blow string through from point "A" to point "B"

Then attach wire and pull through

Make sure you first de-burr holes so wire will not nick on hole. Pull it through slowly. Very slowly...

You can also use a piece of welding wire [wire fed welder] small gauge as a "fish tape" to run wires through.

Most people use grommets to protect wires where they come out of tube, but I prefer to use clear silicon, it will insulate and keep it in one spot.

Fuse each wire run on out put of switch as it feeds each wire to light. That way, if one light shorts out, you will have another to get back to camp.

Have fun,

Steve

[Sand Commander]

Make a hook out of tie wire to pull the string out of the second hole. Sometimes you have to wiggle it around in the hole to catch the string.

Fishing wires is a time consuming process, but worth it. You will have to examine the tubes on your rail to be sure you can fish through them. Sometimes you have to exit one tube and then enter again after a tube crosses it, for example.